I have a device that runs on 115 volts DC. Can I plug it into a 115 volt household outlet?
No - this
would damage the device. Household receptacles operate on anywhere from 110 to 120 volts AC (alternating current). A DC device
requires direct current, such as what is supplied by a battery. It can only be used on a household receptacle if it is connected
through an AC to DC converter first.
I have an electric heater on the same circuit as my plasma TV. Whenever the heater turns on, a white band
scrolls across my TV. What can I do to fix this problem? Would a surge suppressor help?
The lines are probably being caused by
a temporary dip in power when the heater kicks on and surge suppressors can't do anything about voltage drops. The easiest
and cheapest way to solve this problem is by plugging the heater into a receptacle on a different circuit than the TV. If
it still happens, then you might have a problem with loose connections in the panel that is being reflected in the disturbances
on the TV.
Lastly, if plugging the heater into
another circuit is not an option, then you could purchase an uninterruptable power supply (UPS) and plug the TV into that.
This device will eliminate noise and surges and can also supply additional power if there is a voltage drop.
I have two 120 volt circuits combined for my water heater.
The circuit breakers say 30 on them. Is that amps? I am upgrading to a tankless heater that requires two 60 amp circuit breakers.
Can I simply remove the 2 30 amp breakers and replace them with 60 amp breakers or is there more to it?
No - if you do this, you will risk starting a fire.
A new circuit would have
to be run using the appropriately sized conductor to handle the maximum continuous load of the water heater plus 25%.
I bought an electric tankless water heater that requires three 60
amp circuits. I have a 200 amp service in my home. Is this going to use too much amperage?
Amperage is an on-demand value. An appliance will draw only the amount of amps it
needs for operation, and no more. Voltage is a different story. An appliance must be matched to the correct input voltage
or it may be damaged.
the manufacturer’s instructions for the total current (amperage) draw of the device. Just because it has three 60 amp
circuits, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it will draw 180 amps. However, if it did, then you might have occasions
where the main breaker for your house might trip from overload.
I have a 3 wire 220 volt connection to my electric range.
I would like to move the stove to the other side of the kitchen. Is it possible to place a junction box in a cabinet where
the old range was and run a cable from the junction through the toe-kicks under the cabinets to the new range location, where
a new socket would be installed behind the range?
Sure, just be sure to use armored cable to protect the wires from damage since they
won't be concealed in the wall.
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