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There are multiple questions on this
page. Be sure to scroll down to find the one you're looking for!
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While remodeling my kitchen, I removed my Hotpoint RK767GOJ3BG double
wall oven. The original wiring was very sloppy, so I’m redoing it. While doing so, I noticed the wires in the ‘whip’
assembly coming out of the back of the oven were 10 AWG. They look original, but they seem small. It’s connected to
a 50 amp 240 volt circuit. Is this typical or might someone have rewired the thing?
Check the nameplate rating on the oven (usually inside the door lip). This will
tell you the maximum wattage that the appliance is designed to draw. That tells you how large to size the supply conductors.
It is not unusual to see smaller conductors inside the actual appliance; manufacturers are allowed to follow different
wiring rules than the electrician supplying power to the unit.
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When using the microwave in our kitchen an outlet on the
opposite side of the kitchen made a crackling sound and started to spark. Why is this happening?
Most likely the wiring connections in that receptacle that lead to the microwave
receptacle are loose, which would cause arcing during high pass-thru current usage, such as with a microwave or toaster.
Tightening the connections should take care of the problem, provided that no additional damage has occurred.
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My refrigerator occasionally turns off on its own. The
breaker for that circuit is not tripped. But, if I turn on a burner on my electric stove, the fridge will come back on and
remain on after I turn the stove off. What the heck is going on?
Sounds like you have an intermittent bad phase. Could be due to a bad main breaker
or a loose connection somewhere. When you turn on a 240 volt load, it will back feed other circuits on the opposite pole.
You should contact a licensed electrician ASAP to resolve this problem.
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Recently moved into an existing home (build in '98). The
previous owner had the house build with 2 switches in all the rooms for light switch and a ceiling fan switch but never installed
ceiling fans. An electrician recently replaced my old ceiling fan with a Hunter ceiling fan with light kit yesterday. There
are two switches on the wall that used to control the fan and light separately. Now only one switch is used because my new
fan has a built-in remote. Is there a way I can control the fan and light separately from the switches instead of the remote?
If your fan has an intregally-mounted remote in the canopy (meaning you can't remove
the receiver and wire it directly) then you have no choice but to use the remote all the time to control the fan and light
- you would have to always leave the switch on.
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Licensed electricians serving Orange
county, Sullivan county, and Ulster county in New York (845) 888-8000
_________________________________________________________________________________________________ All information contained within this site ©2004-2016, Wurtsboro Electric Service, Inc. All rights
reserved.
Reproducing or duplicating any information contained herein is prohibited by law.
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